Sunset to Dusk Surf Session 3/01/2012

Was planning to go out for a nice leisurely sunset paddle and listen to my WaterFi (my waterproof iPod), when I noticed that we had some real, peaking waves! I quickly donned my wetsuit and grabbed the GoPro gear.

The waves were big, but not huge–the striking feature was that they were moving quite fast, and getting quite a vertical face pretty far out. The net result was that I was picking up serious speed very, very quickly and having to get out before it closed out on me (look for a couple of “whew!”‘s on my face after the rides).  Makes for a quick, short ride– you can always tell its quick when I catch a tiny bit of air kicking out).

You can get a feel for the speed of the quickly peaking waves at about 30 seconds (actually, that scene is the default image on the vid below), when a wave suddenly gets very steep and grabs my board out from under me.  In basketball we call that rejection!– It looks like I’ve been catapulted into that belly-flop– I guess I was (I didn’t jump!)
You can see me eyeing that wave from the wave I was riding– was hoping to get enough lateral distance on that wave to get to the shoulder of the one that catapulted me– no such luck…

The slo-mo at 1:25 is a test.  Not sure it is worth it…

Enjoy the sunset at the 1 min. mark–  and yes, those are the lights of the Marine Room lighting my way!

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