Surf Session 2/14/2012

A couple day storm blew in some big, but turbulently choppy waves.  These aren't the monsters that I like to ride over by the caves (14 ft+, but rolling for quite a while), however, they were definitely overhead, violent, and very fast moving waves early, before it settled down an hour and half or so into the session.  It took me almost 10 punishing minutes to paddle out-- and it felt like I'd just sprinted a mile.

The first ride on this video, (as well as the ones at 0:25 and 0:45) was clearly overhead-- it blotted out a decent part of the horizon on me and I got some incredible speeds in a short amount of time-- when I kicked out I still had enough speed on that vector to go airborne on accident (0:19)!!  I bailed on the second one-- the wave collapsed and I didn't want to get stuck in the whitewash only to have to paddle out again!  And of course, you can even see me getting barreled at 1:01.  Well, maybe steamrolled is more like it.  ;)

I included some of the later rides because I found it cinemagraphically interesting with the setting sun behind me.  My favorite of the later rides was the one at 1:55, with the base turn cutback, and a quasi off-the-lip move...

Overall, while not my best day out there by a good margin, definitely a fun day.

This entry was posted in GoPro, Leisure, Ocean, SUP. Bookmark the permalink.

Leave a Reply